Frank
Walters
Oofty
Goofty once played Romeo opposite Big Bertha’s Juliet. This happened sometime in the 1880s, at the Bella Union
Theater on Kearny Street in Chinatown. Before that he was the Wild Man of Borneo. He
smeared himself in tar and covered himself in horsehair, then climbed into a cage that someone locked
behind him, clamped a big hunk of raw meat between his teeth, and jumped up and
down yelling “Oofty Goofty Oofty Goofty” while animal blood ran down his
chin. He did this everyday down on
Market Street until he got sick and lost his job. The doctors labored for days to remove the
tar and horsehair, but they gave up.
Then they carried him to the roof of the Receivers Hospital and left him
there to die. But Oofty Goofty was one
tough motherfucker. While he lay there
delivering up his lamentations to the San Francisco sky, some unnamed
benefactor poured a bucket of paint solvent on him. This saved his life, and then he
came down from the roof like Moses from the mountain to tread the boards as a Shakespearean
actor. It was a short career. It began a little after sunset and ended before
midnight of the same day.
You
can probably tell by now that here was a man who knew he wanted to be in the entertainment
business, but who hadn’t quite figured out the exact nature of his calling. The cage, the stage: he was like a moon in
search of a planet. One night he got
thrown out of a saloon up on the Barbary Coast.
It’s said that when he picked himself up from the cobblestones, he found his calling the minute he
realized he didn’t feel any pain. It was like the heavens
had opened up and an angel had come down and read to him from the Big Book of
Careers in Entertainment. “Thou shalt submit
thyself to the abuse perpetrated upon thee by others,” the angel said. And so for the next few years Oofty Goofty walked all
over San Francisco carrying a walking stick and a baseball bat. He would approach one of the good citizens of
the city, hand him the stick and the bat, and stand stoically in one spot,
waiting for the perplexed passerby to do his worst. For a dime he could beat Oofty Goofty with
the walking stick. For a quarter he got
one, good swing with the baseball bat.
The destitute weren’t forgotten, either.
For a nickel they could kick him between the legs. Oofty Goofty’s career ended when the
Heavyweight Champion of the World, John L. Sullivan, the Boston Strong Boy they
called him, hit him in the back with the bat so hard that he broke three of his
vertebrae. From then on Oofty Goofty was
a broken man. He spent the rest of his
life out of work, walking with a painful limp, one of San Francisco’s
homeless. Within a few years he was dead.
Stories
like this are how you know you’re in North Beach.
It
used to be you could come here on a Saturday night, when it was called the
Barbary Coast, get shitfaced on rum and opium, catch a burlesque show, and wake
up the next morning in the bottom of a ship, chained to the timbers, bound for
Hong Kong or Shanghai. Knock back a few,
smoke a bowl, get laid, take a boat ride.
It was a rough place, crawling with wild men and wild women from just
about everywhere. One chronicler, Albert
Evans, in 1871, called the Barbary Coast “the maelstrom of vice and iniquity,
strewn from end to end with the wrecks of humanity.” A contemporary of Evans, Benjamin Lloyd, wrote
that
The
Barbary Coast is the haunt of the low and the vile of every kind. The petty
thief, the house burglar, the tramp, the whoremonger, lewd women, cutthroats,
murderers, all are found here. Dance-halls and concert-saloons, where
blear-eyed men and faded women drink vile liquor, smoke offensive tobacco,
engage in vulgar conduct, sing obscene songs and say and do everything to heap
upon themselves more degradation, are numerous. Low gambling houses, thronged
with riot-loving rowdies, in all stages of intoxication, are there. Opium dens,
where heathen Chinese and God-forsaken men and women are sprawled in
miscellaneous confusion, disgustingly drowsy or completely overcome, are there.
Licentiousness, debauchery, pollution, loathsome disease, insanity from
dissipation, misery, poverty, wealth, profanity, blasphemy, and death, are
there. And Hell, yawning to receive the putrid mass, is there also.
Lloyd must
have spent a lot of time there. But these
were Oofty Goofty’s people, his audience, his natural constituency, and they
loved him, and he loved them. But
they’re mostly all gone now, and I feel a kind of sadness in that.
What I’m looking for is evidence that Oofty
Goofty’s world hasn’t all gone away. I’ve
just made the long climb up Grant Street, through Chinatown, and have turned on
to Columbus, the main thoroughfare through North Beach, into the teeth of a
stiff, cold breeze. The sun, just past
noon, provides some warmth, but I’ve worked up a light sweat in four miles of
walking. Behind me is the city’s
Financial District, all steel and glass and cutthroat Mad Men deals that may be the only legacy the Barbary Coast has
left. The most prominent building I’m
leaving behind is the Trans America Tower, the tapering pyramid featured in the
commercials. It looks like a missile poised
for takeoff, potent, explosive, but when I look back at it, all I see is an
inert, dull-pointed needle stuck permanently in delayed countdown. Ahead of me is the nineteenth century, quaint,
touristy, trendy, the Victorian Age sucked through YouTube like a raspberry
through a straw. I walk through throngs
of entrepreneurs, lawyers, secretaries, tourists, shopkeepers, students. More of them are sitting at tables outside of
cafes and coffee shops tapping into iPhones and laptops and draining lattes and
mochas.
Some things never change. The homeless weave among the hurrying mass like dark splotches on a chest x-ray. Some are pushing shopping carts laden with overstuffed plastic garbage bags. The way they fill the volume of the urban world, scavenge cigarette butts from the gutter, bend over head-first into dumpsters, all legs and buttocks in the air, relieve themselves in public: this can be unsettling. It exposes my own vulnerability to a cutting inward gaze. I walk right through them. I tune them out. I try to talk to them, drawing suspicious gazes from people sitting at the outdoor cafes. They bear the scars of numerous beatings, but there isn’t a baseball bat in sight. I walk past the Victorian Bakery on Stockton Street and a man approaches me. He’s tall, lanky, sports a few days’ growth of beard, an animal look in his eyes. He looks like he hasn’t slept in a bed in days, but there’s a Bluetooth device in his ear. When he passes me, I hear him say, “If you don’t give me half of what’s in your savings account by tomorrow, I’ll kill your fuckin’ wife.” A woman sitting outside the bakery drops her strawberry Danish on the sidewalk. It lies there, split open like a gutted rabbit.
Some things never change. The homeless weave among the hurrying mass like dark splotches on a chest x-ray. Some are pushing shopping carts laden with overstuffed plastic garbage bags. The way they fill the volume of the urban world, scavenge cigarette butts from the gutter, bend over head-first into dumpsters, all legs and buttocks in the air, relieve themselves in public: this can be unsettling. It exposes my own vulnerability to a cutting inward gaze. I walk right through them. I tune them out. I try to talk to them, drawing suspicious gazes from people sitting at the outdoor cafes. They bear the scars of numerous beatings, but there isn’t a baseball bat in sight. I walk past the Victorian Bakery on Stockton Street and a man approaches me. He’s tall, lanky, sports a few days’ growth of beard, an animal look in his eyes. He looks like he hasn’t slept in a bed in days, but there’s a Bluetooth device in his ear. When he passes me, I hear him say, “If you don’t give me half of what’s in your savings account by tomorrow, I’ll kill your fuckin’ wife.” A woman sitting outside the bakery drops her strawberry Danish on the sidewalk. It lies there, split open like a gutted rabbit.
Literally, the Barbary Coast is gone. Landfill has extended the original shoreline
half a mile into the bay, a highly dubious bit of geological finagling, as the
1989 Loma Prima earthquake demonstrated, to create some additional acreage of
expensive real estate. Families
promenade on the streets. The city’s
affluent buy and rent and shop and dine at prices that are instructive of the
limits of a third mate’s wages. Poetry
sails forth from upper rooms. (In fact, I’m
about to pass City Lights, where Ginsberg read Howl.) Genteel nightlife
abounds. It is generally agreed that the
1906 earthquake is responsible for this tepid state of affairs. In the
decade following, the city government, the police department, civic leaders,
and The San Francisco Examiner
conspired to clean up the district, and by the 1920s almost nothing distinctly
Barbary about the area remained. Riot
yielded to order. Debauchery succumbed
to domestication. Hell yawned,
bored. An age had passed.
There are two stops I want to make.
The
first is Washington Square Park, which sits at the base of Russian Hill, whose eastern
face is covered with the snowy likeness of white Victorian homes. On the western edge of the park is the
statue of that old Deist, Benjamin Franklin.
It was here that Richard Brautigan posed with Michaela Le Grand for the cover
of Trout Fishing in America. And it’s the setting for Brautigan’s story of
Trout Fishing in America Shorty, the “legless, screaming middle-aged wino,” he
calls him, who would wheel himself over to the statue, wine bottle clutched in
one hand, and drink until he passed out and fell out of his chair, face first
in the grass, Ben Franklin looming above him like a scowling iron cloud. Trout
Fishing in America is a brilliant, rambling, and troubled book, and perhaps
somewhere in its murky depths are clues to Brautigan’s suicide in 1984, at the
age of forty-nine, after he had been beaten into submission by the baseball bat
of the Me Generation’s indifference. In
it lurk the ghosts of the Beat Poets of a decade earlier, when times were
flush, who chronicled in mystical tantric verse the hopes and despairs of their
most unusual lives among the believers in North Beach. The best of Brautigan’s generation got old,
drank too much, got the clap, and turned the music over to the hair bands.
The
second is a stretch of Columbus Street between Valejo and Broadway, in front of
an art store. This is the best place to
observe two more vestiges of the Barbary Coast. Directly across the street is the
Shrine of Saint Francis of Assisi, originally a parish church founded in
1859. Its twin ivory spires float
above the trees and a row of Victorian houses against a blue sky,
reaching upward
to the source of a different kind of wealth from that down the street. A block over, to my
right, where Columbus intersects Broadway, sits the infamous Condor Club, which
opened in 1964 but occupies an eyesore of a building that’s been in existence
since the 1870s. There’s one way to
measure the distance between the shrine and the club: I could
throw a softball, even with my arthritic shoulder, from one building to the
other. But this is the Barbary Coast,
and what happened at the Condor Club seems oddly appropriate, even in the
vicinity of the shrine. On the
night of June 19, 1964, a stripper named Carol Doda bared her enormous breasts
before a paying audience of admiring worshippers. It was a Friday night, start of a summer
weekend, and by this act alone the redoubtable Ms. Doda became the first female
topless dancer in America and the unofficial high-priestess of adult
entertainment. (Five years later she
went bottomless.) A playbill from the
old days called her a “true pioneer.”
She does not appear in E. D. Hirsch’s list of What Every American Needs
to Know, but her place in cultural history was cemented anyway when no less an
authority than the State of California honored her with a plaque (“WHERE IT ALL
BEGAN”) on the brick wall outside the club’s entrance to commemorate her
contribution to the nation’s attenuated nightlife.
I cross
the street and walk down Valejo, past the shrine, through shadows cast by the
late afternoon sun, my destination Telegraph Hill. Across the street there’s a row of police motorcycles
parked in front of Café Trieste, where Ginsberg and Ferlinghetti took their
coffee. When I reach the corner at Grant,
I’m stopped by a voice: “I remember cherry tree summer and my mother’s tattered
dress.” In truth, I cannot say for
certain that these are his exact words.
There is a tree and a mother’s dress, and he speaks in a low, almost
inaudible, tone. One sentence follows
another, a random and private litany of recollections. “The recoilless rifle shot of a word that
burns the heart.” “Vessels of blood and
a mind searing afar.” There is nonsense
and lucidity. He recalls the corrupting
influence of money. His mother
again. I’ve read the beat poets, and I
recognize images: nakedness, police cars, vacant buildings, bombs, corpses. He could be reciting bits of their poetry he
remembers, and he has the look of a distracted and bedazzled poet.
He sits on the pavement, back against the brick wall of the shrine, his
legs stretched out in front of him. He wears
a tattered brown jacket, spotted with dirt and spills, torn, gray pants and
shredded work boots. And he has the unshowered
look and smell of the street life.
His Ginsberg beard makes it hard to guess his age. The lines in his face, the crow’s feet,
furrows above his eyes, a pocked, crooked nose that looks like it had been
broken: I’m guessing sixties. I listen
to him, but he seems oblivious to my presence.
Next to him are a backpack and a canvas Wal-Mart bag, and spread out around
him like satellites are 5 by 7 photographs of San Francisco. There is nothing to indicate that he is
selling them, no dollar bills stuffed into a cup, no sign with prices. He weaves tales that might have an origin but
might not, and that have no destination.
I have been told that he might have come from a moneyed family and that
there is a trust fund, which is parceled out to him in small amounts, and which
he promptly squanders.
At the
café I buy a sandwich and small bottle of orange juice and bring them back to
him. Without interrupting himself, he
motions for me to set them down next to him.
“Do we step on what we can’t see?”, but this is not asked of me. I ask him if he has a name, but except for a
momentary pause in his delivery, he doesn’t acknowledge me. I’m not even here. He remembers a childhood, a playground, a
father’s stern warning. Hunger? Love?
Beauty? The sunlight comes
through the trees, and shadows play across his craggy face. In it I see pain and years, or possibly nothing
more than the long weary toil of life against time’s walking stick and baseball
bat.
Two days
later, I was walking up Market Street. I
had forgotten about him. But when I
passed the Starbuck’s at Eddie Street, I saw him. He was sitting at a table by the window, the
same clothes, the same bags, the same photographs. Opened before him was a journal. He was lost in thought, writing.